As it emerges from the kitchen, the white glistening oblong gives no hint as to what it is, but it is carried so gently and with such a sense of reverence you could imagine it had some religious ...

1 large leek, trimmed and cut into 5mm (¼ in) thick slices 50g (1¾ oz) plain flour 600ml (1 pint) hot, full-fat milk 1½ tbsp chopped fresh dill finely grated rind of ½ lemon salt and freshly ground ...